GIRL BETA

This video was shot on a very hot day, at about noon, when the rattlesnakes are just coming out of their dug holes. It was about 75 degrees, and I decided not to have any spotters for this climb. I was sweaty and each move seemed committing. Don’t listen to those who say that “the climb is over once you have the two finger pocket” because that is not true in the slightest. The crimps are good, but you have to feel confident on your feet. This climb is strictly vertical, so balance is the key. This boulder is also quite high, higher than last season.

• Start matched on small sharp crimps
• left foot high, move dynamically for left two finger pocket. Once you got it, adjust finger to the right side of the pocket, it helps for the next move.
• Match feet and then stem left foot out. There is a micro crimp for the right hand about a foot or so above the pocket. Crimp it to bring right foot up on start holds.
• Big reach for the right hand to a solid crimp and then move left hand to the left hand crimp on the level.
• Bring right foot up to the pocket and go right hand to solid, but not in-cut, crimp.
• Move feet up and then left hand to a sloping crimp.
• This last move was committing for me, mainly because of the sweatiness. Move dynamically to left hand horn, it’s pretty much a jug. Then you are done.

This entry was posted on Saturday, May 28th, 2011 at 7:41 am and is filed under Boulder Problems. You can follow any responses to this entry through the RSS 2.0 feed. You can leave a response, or trackback from your own site.