Inspiration. Information. Improvement.


Dark Continent – V7/V8, Joe’s Valley – UT

Thanks to Jeff Silcox for the great beta!

  • Start left hand crimp and right hand jug crimp on the face. Right foot high on face and left foot hard flag with compression.
  • Right hand moves to good triangle ledge.
  • Heel hook left and flag right foot to move left hand to undercling pinch.
  • Move to right high foot on start hold and left foot hard flag with compression to move right hand to side facing incut crimp.
  • Knee bar left leg (foot on start hold) and right foot hard flag with compression to move left hand to triangle ledge.
  • Move right foot to start hold (I kept the left knee bar for this, or you can flag) and big dynamic move to right hand pinch. This hold has a lot of texture)
  • Right foot toe hook by left foot to move to left heel hook.
  • Flag right foot and reach to blind crimp on the ledge. (This hold faces sideways and is sharp, but good)
  • Cut feet and move left foot to triangle ledge.
  • Pull up and go for right hand small crimp (I kept hitting the sloper crimp that is a bit further away. Try to readjust the hand closer to you if this happens to you. The crimp is sharp and not very incut).
  • Throw a high right heel hook and press up with right hand to the big edge. The further in you go the better it is.
  • Mantle hard. There are holds up there. Just balance on the right foot, and keep moving the weight over the right foot to finish the top out.

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