I have been living in Seattle for a year now, 1 YEAR! I have somehow managed to survive my first winter here in Seattle, but it wouldn’t have been possible without being able to climb in Squamish and Leavenworth. Now, if you know these areas, you know that the rock just doesn’t give you any feet to work with, and for full value of boulder problems, you will have to beach whale your way over the top outs. This has been a new learning experience for me. These areas have taught me to use my feet, and be creative. During this time, I switched from the Scarpa’s Vapor S climbing shoe to the Vapor V’s, in hopes that with its design of being a little less aggressive, it will help me feel the rock more. And they did. I learned to feel the rock and trust the rubber that these shoes have to offer. My foot work improved and it was tested when I went back to Colorado for a day in Guanella Pass. When I walked up to the boulders, I looked at the problems and yelled “there are foot holds!!” “Yay!” I only took my Vapor V climbing shoes, because I am just so used to that, and was able to edge on all of the holds, everywhere on the rock. I was able to climb so many boulder problems, and my feet felt so comfortable and solid. I even got to send a ridiculous project from about 3 years ago, Ninja Pony Ride, with hardly any issues. It has a precise heel hook hand match, then a powerful reach across to a sloper. With the ridges on the heel cup, I was able to stick this thing and it felt awesome. Now I’m back in Seattle, ready to go climb in Squamish and Leavenworth again. I love my climbing shoes so much, that in my passion, so many of my clients at Vertical World have purchased them and have had great results. If you are interested in buying a pair of your own, check out The Clymb where they offer Vapor V’s and a ton of other awesome climbing gear to help you send.
Evan and Ian getting some motivation during the System’s Wall class at Vertical World
Here are a few follow along training videos for Sport Climbing and Aid Climbing. These were made for Climbing Magazine’s Edition of the 50 Classic Climbs. Check out my full article in Climbing Magazine here!.
Are you Paleo? Are you Vegan? Are you Gluten Free? Well, it is so hard to say what kind of nutrition category I fall into. I’m not entirely Paleo, I’m not entirely gluten free, I’m not entirely against all carbs. I know for sure that once I do fixate on one category and am completely strict about my diet, I tend to freak out a few weeks in and totally lose it. I end up having a worse diet than I did before.
I am bringing this up because recently I read a few articles by Dr. John Berardi. He is hands down one of the best nutritionists today and all of his work is research based but also very practical. He has worked with thousands of people, elite athletes, recreational athletes, people looking to be healthier, the obese population, etc. He knows his stuff and can formulate a plan for anyone. He himself said that he can’t quite fit into a specific category when it comes to nutrition. He says that people are too different from one another and that you just cannot recommend the same diet for everyone. We all have different body types, come from different areas around the world, and have different genetic needs. Exercise, and the type of exercise, also plays a big part in what you eat and what you need nutritionally.
One of the best things that come out of dieting is that you become more aware of what you put into your mouth. What you shove into your mouth ultimately has an affect on your current body and your future body. I know that if I eat more sweets, the next day my joints hurt. This is a deduction I have finally made because of cleaning up my diet. Now, that’s not to say that I will stop eating sweets, but I am aware of it and do my best to keep the sweets to a minimum. I know that if I eat a small breakfast, I tend to be so darn hungry in the afternoon, I will eat and eat until I am stuffed, and sometimes choosing the wrong foods to fill my appetite. I have learned this through adjusting my portion sizes and the timing of my meals.
In the past I have been so reluctant to advise people on dieting, because the field of nutrition is so complex and there is not one cure all method of dieting. But what I can advise is to try things out, and take small steps to changing how you eat, because in the end, you want to change your behavior of eating, not just what you eat. So, taking it slowly will ensure your retention to change, and you wont stress out and explode. You will have, as I like to call it, “fat” days where you cheat here and there, because you socialize, go out to eat, holidays etc, but in all, you do your best in changing how you eat. For me it was the timing of my meals (trying not to eat after 6pm, eating high protein foods after workouts), eating whole foods (reducing the amount of processed foods), and eating smaller, more frequent meals (every 2-3 hours).
If you’d like more information on how to get started on a better eating regime, you should check out Dr. Berardi’s site. He offers a free 5 day course that will actually help you get started in the right direction. He breaks everything down and always gives research based info so that you can learn and know what he knows.
Here are the links to the Free 5 day courses. It’s different for men and women, so make sure you click on the right one
Free Video Course on Fat Loss for Men
Free Video Course on Fat Loss for Women
The other day, after running an intense climbing workout class, one of my clients asked me what the best post workout foods or
When it comes to recovery, it’s all about eating the right ratio of carbohydrates and protein within a 30 minute period after your workout.
This is when your body is sensitive to insulin. By eating the right ratio (4:1) of carbs to protein, the better your muscles can synthesize protein, replenish muscle glycogen, reduce muscle soreness, and improve muscular strength and body composition.
According to scientific research1, whey protein and casein are two of the best complete proteins to ingest after workouts. Whey protein is fast acting and increases protein synthesis, whereas casein is slow acting and inhibits protein breakdown, both very useful mechanisms for recovery after intense exercise. Whey and casein come from milk, and can be found in other dairy products. If you are lactose intolerant, manufacturers make whey protein isolate, which is lactose free, and can often include casein.
If you prefer not to consume animal products, one of several supplements that is closest to a complete protein is Hemp protein. Your goal is to have a fast acting supplement or food after your workouts.
- Mercedes Pollmeier
Below are some other examples of the preferred ratio of carbohydrate to protein:
|Food Item||Carbohydrates (grams)||Protein (grams)|
|Non-fat chocolate milk, 8oz||26||8|
|Non-fat, fruit on the bottom yogurt, 6 oz||28||6|
|1 mozzarella string cheese stick, 5 whole grain crackers, 10 grapes||26||8.5|
|1 cup Cheerios® and 1/2 cup of milk||27||7|
|1/4 cup of hummus and 1/2 cup of carrots||15||5|
|1 slice of whole-grain bread, 1 oz turkey with mustard, and 1 cup of apple juice||35||9|
1. Wein, D & Miraglia, M. Whey Protein vs. Casein Protein and Optimal Recovery. NSCA Performance Training Journal . 2013.
Galina Parfenov sends Gusher V11 in Ute Pass, CO. This is a tough one, especially the top out. Below she gives her beta for the Crux and Top Out. Great send Galina!
Crux: Shift your weight onto your left hand and lock-off while pressing hard with your right foot, then cross right hand to the undercling crack.
Topout: Using the starting rail for feet, traverse your way across the lower crack until you hit a good gaston with your right hand. Get a high right foot and bump your right hand over to a decent sidepull around the slopey corner. Move left hand to the gaston and finish on undercling crimpers.
This is a very proud moment, for women in climbing and for Tomoko. It’s really great to see women from around the world, pushing their limits, staying focused, and sending their projects. Watch this great video of Tomoko Ogawa, and how psyched she is when she sends. Congrats Tomoko!
by Mercedes Pollmeier, M.S., CSCS
First of all, what is the core? Well, it’s definitely not just your abs. It incorporates most of your trunk, your back and your butt. Some exercise science specialists also say that the core can extend all the way down your hamstrings (posterior chain) and quadriceps (anterior chain). The core really is the ability to recruit as many muscles as possible to make movement as efficient as possible. By doing this, you decrease your chance of injury as well as making your body more balanced. This is why it is very important to do “core” training, or also known as full body exercises.
In climbing, when you cut your feet from the wall, what is the deciding factor to stay on the wall? Well, it’s actually a number of factors, and all are included in the “core”. In order to bring your feet back to the wall, you must have the finger strength, shoulder strength, trunk strength, lat strength and back strength to swing back on and accurately place your foot. This means training all of these things together to achieve awesomeness.
What exercises would be good for core development? Well, first of all, I believe that women in general have really good isolated ab strength. When we do crunches compared to our male counterparts, it seems we can go forever. But, when you ask us to do more integrated exercises, such as leg lifts from a bar, we fall apart. So ladies, work less on isolated ab exercises and more on integrated exercises.
If you have never done ab exercises before, or have had some time off from training, or if you have a lower body injury that you are recovering from, you should start with gradual isolated ab exercises that work on the transverse abdominis and spinal muscles. This is very important to do!
Once you have done this for a few weeks, you can progress to some more difficult exercises that involve leg lifts, leg lifts with medicine balls, hanging knee raises etc.
Exercises that create a lot of tension or torque are also very important to incorporate into your regime. This is where all the muscles communicate with each other at the same time. Good examples are the front elbow plank, side elbow plank, and other really awesome varieties of the plank. To get the posterior chain, you can do hip bridges and table tops.
Climbing specific “core” exercises would be anything that involves hanging. Toe touches to the bar, front lever variations, windshield wipers are good examples of these.
Don’t forget! Squats, dead lifts, push ups and pull ups are also considered “core” exercises, because they involve the whole body to achieve the movement. Be safe with your exercises, take the progressions slow, and don’t push yourself to fast to achieve results. Your goal is to stay injury free as you become as strong as an OX.
For more training advice or online coaching contact firstname.lastname@example.org
Here is a video about Erin Machinchick, who is a fairly new climber and offers a great perspective on what it’s like when you make climbing a part of your life. She has only been climbing for a year now and has already lead a 5.12a outside. Keep it up Erin!
Brooklyn Boulders, a gym based just outside of downtown Manhattan, is working hard to embrace their surrounding community through the act of climbing. Their latest event, dubbed Elevate The Public, is geared towards raising funds to assist with recruiting students and mentors for their City Rocks Program. This program is geared to helping inner-city youths better themselves through rock climbing and community based projects.
Many people in the climbing community talk about giving back, but this program and the members of the Brooklyn Boulders Foundation have put the wheels in motion to help expose children to rock climbing as a way to mentor them during their lives. In order to create these great opportunities for the local youths, the foundation is asking those within the climbing community for assistance.
The video below offers a better overall view of the program your donation would go to:
If you would like to make a donation to the Elevate the Public campaign you may do so by visiting http://wediditfundraising.com/campaigns/29-elevate-the-public
If you would like more information about the Brooklyn Boulders Foundation check them out at www.BKBFoundation.org
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