Marci and Olivia take down two boulders in Cowell, Arkansas
Le Beak V4
Unassisted Helicopter V6
Anne Stablein climbs the Tick Traverse in Maryland.
Here are 5 problems featured in Xu Liting’s video from Heuco Tanks in 2013.
Hector in a Blender V7
Big Iron on His Hip V7
Pumped Full of Semen V9
Theater of the Absurd V10
Ariel Chilton climbs Seven Spanish Angels with some static beta. Warning, I would turn your volume down for this one, but the beta is great.
If you are one who is training a ton this winter as well as trying to ski or enjoy winter sports on the weekends, you probably aren’t giving enough attention to your recovery. The more efficient you recover, the sooner you are ready for the next hard workout, as well as avoiding plateaus and burn out.As an active person, if you don’t recover adequately, you will more than likely weaken your immune system, as well as underperform and feel fatigued. The reason for this is when we exercise and then add in stressors of life and work, without recovering properly, our ‘sympathetic nervous system’ takes over, which is our fight or flight response. This system accelerates heart rate, disrupts sleeping patterns, reduces metabolism, increases carbohydrate cravings etc. If this system takes over for too long, you could potentially ‘hit the wall.’
A good place to start the process of recovery is right after your workout or climbing session. Supplementing with a protein drink, either a carb + protein blend, or a BCAA’s drink, within 15 minutes of finishing your workout, will kick start your recovery. Eating unprocessed/natural food, within one hour of your workout is also essential in your recovery. Doing these two initial steps can stimulate growth hormone and testosterone in your body to activate recovery, and help repair your muscles efficiently. Next, you want to focus on activities that decrease the activity of the ‘sympathetic nervous system’ and increase ‘parasympathetic nervous system’, your rest and recovery response. Things like foam rolling, stretching, yoga, meditation, and massage all stimulate this response. These will improve circulation and blood flow, so that wastes are taken out of the body while being replaced with new nutrients. Aim for about 30 minutes a day of intentional recovery.
Some other recommendations would be to sleep around 8 hours a night, drink plenty of water, vary your training intensity and try cross training, avoid using anti-inflammatories, and be sure to eat as many nutrient dense foods, and avoid processed foods. All of these things can help reduce your stress, help you get ready for your next workout, and lower your risk of getting sick this spring!
I have been living in Seattle for a year now, 1 YEAR! I have somehow managed to survive my first winter here in Seattle, but it wouldn’t have been possible without being able to climb in Squamish and Leavenworth. Now, if you know these areas, you know that the rock just doesn’t give you any feet to work with, and for full value of boulder problems, you will have to beach whale your way over the top outs. This has been a new learning experience for me. These areas have taught me to use my feet, and be creative. During this time, I switched from the Scarpa’s Vapor S climbing shoe to the Vapor V’s, in hopes that with its design of being a little less aggressive, it will help me feel the rock more. And they did. I learned to feel the rock and trust the rubber that these shoes have to offer. My foot work improved and it was tested when I went back to Colorado for a day in Guanella Pass. When I walked up to the boulders, I looked at the problems and yelled “there are foot holds!!” “Yay!” I only took my Vapor V climbing shoes, because I am just so used to that, and was able to edge on all of the holds, everywhere on the rock. I was able to climb so many boulder problems, and my feet felt so comfortable and solid. I even got to send a ridiculous project from about 3 years ago, Ninja Pony Ride, with hardly any issues. It has a precise heel hook hand match, then a powerful reach across to a sloper. With the ridges on the heel cup, I was able to stick this thing and it felt awesome. Now I’m back in Seattle, ready to go climb in Squamish and Leavenworth again. I love my climbing shoes so much, that in my passion, so many of my clients at Vertical World have purchased them and have had great results. If you are interested in buying a pair of your own, check out The Clymb where they offer Vapor V’s and a ton of other awesome climbing gear to help you send.
Evan and Ian getting some motivation during the System’s Wall class at Vertical World
Here are a few follow along training videos for Sport Climbing and Aid Climbing. These were made for Climbing Magazine’s Edition of the 50 Classic Climbs. Check out my full article in Climbing Magazine here!.
Are you Paleo? Are you Vegan? Are you Gluten Free? Well, it is so hard to say what kind of nutrition category I fall into. I’m not entirely Paleo, I’m not entirely gluten free, I’m not entirely against all carbs. I know for sure that once I do fixate on one category and am completely strict about my diet, I tend to freak out a few weeks in and totally lose it. I end up having a worse diet than I did before.
I am bringing this up because recently I read a few articles by Dr. John Berardi. He is hands down one of the best nutritionists today and all of his work is research based but also very practical. He has worked with thousands of people, elite athletes, recreational athletes, people looking to be healthier, the obese population, etc. He knows his stuff and can formulate a plan for anyone. He himself said that he can’t quite fit into a specific category when it comes to nutrition. He says that people are too different from one another and that you just cannot recommend the same diet for everyone. We all have different body types, come from different areas around the world, and have different genetic needs. Exercise, and the type of exercise, also plays a big part in what you eat and what you need nutritionally.
One of the best things that come out of dieting is that you become more aware of what you put into your mouth. What you shove into your mouth ultimately has an affect on your current body and your future body. I know that if I eat more sweets, the next day my joints hurt. This is a deduction I have finally made because of cleaning up my diet. Now, that’s not to say that I will stop eating sweets, but I am aware of it and do my best to keep the sweets to a minimum. I know that if I eat a small breakfast, I tend to be so darn hungry in the afternoon, I will eat and eat until I am stuffed, and sometimes choosing the wrong foods to fill my appetite. I have learned this through adjusting my portion sizes and the timing of my meals.
In the past I have been so reluctant to advise people on dieting, because the field of nutrition is so complex and there is not one cure all method of dieting. But what I can advise is to try things out, and take small steps to changing how you eat, because in the end, you want to change your behavior of eating, not just what you eat. So, taking it slowly will ensure your retention to change, and you wont stress out and explode. You will have, as I like to call it, “fat” days where you cheat here and there, because you socialize, go out to eat, holidays etc, but in all, you do your best in changing how you eat. For me it was the timing of my meals (trying not to eat after 6pm, eating high protein foods after workouts), eating whole foods (reducing the amount of processed foods), and eating smaller, more frequent meals (every 2-3 hours).
If you’d like more information on how to get started on a better eating regime, you should check out Dr. Berardi’s site. He offers a free 5 day course that will actually help you get started in the right direction. He breaks everything down and always gives research based info so that you can learn and know what he knows.
Here are the links to the Free 5 day courses. It’s different for men and women, so make sure you click on the right one
Free Video Course on Fat Loss for Men
Free Video Course on Fat Loss for Women
The other day, after running an intense climbing workout class, one of my clients asked me what the best post workout foods or
When it comes to recovery, it’s all about eating the right ratio of carbohydrates and protein within a 30 minute period after your workout.
This is when your body is sensitive to insulin. By eating the right ratio (4:1) of carbs to protein, the better your muscles can synthesize protein, replenish muscle glycogen, reduce muscle soreness, and improve muscular strength and body composition.
According to scientific research1, whey protein and casein are two of the best complete proteins to ingest after workouts. Whey protein is fast acting and increases protein synthesis, whereas casein is slow acting and inhibits protein breakdown, both very useful mechanisms for recovery after intense exercise. Whey and casein come from milk, and can be found in other dairy products. If you are lactose intolerant, manufacturers make whey protein isolate, which is lactose free, and can often include casein.
If you prefer not to consume animal products, one of several supplements that is closest to a complete protein is Hemp protein. Your goal is to have a fast acting supplement or food after your workouts.
- Mercedes Pollmeier
Below are some other examples of the preferred ratio of carbohydrate to protein:
|Food Item||Carbohydrates (grams)||Protein (grams)|
|Non-fat chocolate milk, 8oz||26||8|
|Non-fat, fruit on the bottom yogurt, 6 oz||28||6|
|1 mozzarella string cheese stick, 5 whole grain crackers, 10 grapes||26||8.5|
|1 cup Cheerios® and 1/2 cup of milk||27||7|
|1/4 cup of hummus and 1/2 cup of carrots||15||5|
|1 slice of whole-grain bread, 1 oz turkey with mustard, and 1 cup of apple juice||35||9|
1. Wein, D & Miraglia, M. Whey Protein vs. Casein Protein and Optimal Recovery. NSCA Performance Training Journal . 2013.
Galina Parfenov sends Gusher V11 in Ute Pass, CO. This is a tough one, especially the top out. Below she gives her beta for the Crux and Top Out. Great send Galina!
Crux: Shift your weight onto your left hand and lock-off while pressing hard with your right foot, then cross right hand to the undercling crack.
Topout: Using the starting rail for feet, traverse your way across the lower crack until you hit a good gaston with your right hand. Get a high right foot and bump your right hand over to a decent sidepull around the slopey corner. Move left hand to the gaston and finish on undercling crimpers.
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