GIRL BETA

The last few posts were made possible by women from around the world who sent their climbing footage in. A big thank you to Detriot Rock Climbing Company for supplying the hang boards that these lovely ladies get to enjoy for their submissions!

Remember, if you submit your video, and it is chosen, you are eligible to win a DRCC hang board, Organic Slider Pad, or some Vertical Girl Clothing, so KEEP’EM COMING!! The video submission period has been extended until May 31st.

Great article by Thomasina!

A top female climber’s personal reflection on motivation and competition in women’s climbing today.

Personal will and determination are indispensable in climbing. The drive of many psyched climbers and their desire to improve stem from their love of the sport. If you lack the desire to grow as a climber, it doesn’t matter if you are male or female; getting your ass up that project is going to be a chore. Read More…

Here is a video submission from Jeline Guiles:

Beta:
- Start with your hands on the two crimp rails at the bottom.
- Use the tiny left foot and a low right heel around the arete.
- Pull up to the first intermediate right crimp, then quickly throw to the higher right crimp. If you’re taller, you can just go straight to the higher right crimp.
- Get a left heel on the start and lock off your right arm. Taller people can toe into the clearly marked left foot below the first starting left hand.
- Fall into the left micro jug.
- Bring your right hand up to the other micro jug on the right side.
- Match your hands and pull up over the lip.
- Reach for the far left jug and top it out.
- Top out holds are numerous, you just have to feel for them

Here is a video submission by Christine Balaz.

Croft Problem at the Lower Smoking Boulder (V8), Bishop, California from Christine Balaz on Vimeo.

*sit start with the right and left hands each on large flakes/ left foot low (backstep), right foot high (in big pocket)
*long left-hand move to good sloper, bump right hand up
*flag left foot behind right
*bump left hand again to gaston
*bring left foot to edge, under body
*move right hand up to 2-finger knob/crimp
*bump right hand up to sloper pocket
*move the right foot up to edge, and then left foot up (into good pocket); this is where beta gets very different for people. Drop knee with left leg
*grab bad sloper/ crimp with left hand (thumb catch is key)
*walk left, then right foot up
*(crux) pop to a good gaston with left hand (make funny noise)
*The problem is pretty much over now; walk feet up, and bring right hand up, then move out to the left

Here is Heather Alday climbing Stephan V7. This video features other classics from LCC and Heather starts climbing a bit before the four minute mark. Beta for this climb is listed below

Little Cottonwood Canyon Classics – Episode 1 from Wagon Productions on Vimeo.

Beta:

Begin low on obvious start holds, left foot low on good hold, edge right foot in crack just left of the more noticeable foot hold. (this will give you extra reach)

Pull off the ground and move right hand to undercling then left hand to 1st crimp rail, left foot up near start hold.

Bump left hand (big move) to 2nd crimp rail. Right foot up to point.

Match hands on crimp rail.

Right hand extends up to the lip, left foot up to crimp, left hand finds a fairly good edge on the left side of the lip. Bring feet up, throw right foot over lip and top out

Climbers – Jill Sompel, Emily McCleary, Kaitlyn Honnald

Red House Remix from Jill Sompel on Vimeo.

Austrian World Cup climber Katha Saurwein shows us some Girl Beta on Xavier’s Roof V11 Bishop, CA

Katha Saurwein doing ‘Xavier’s roof’ V11 the girls way. Bishop CA from katharina saurwein on Vimeo.

February marks the one-year anniversary of Girl Beta. In celebration of this event, we would like to give away some sick gear for YOUR accomplishments. Send us a video of you climbing with beta and you could win a Detroit Rock Climbing Company finger board, some Vertical Girl clothing, or some Organic chalk bags and t-shirts.

For the next two months, send us your video, and if it is selected, you will be sent some goodies. Video submission deadline April 22nd.

Video Requirements:

Features a female climber bouldering outdoors

Should include all moves of the ascent

A YouTube or Vimeo video format

Location and beta

Personal Details:

Name

Address

Phone number

Send video link and info to info@girlbeta.com

Once upon a time…ahem, last month, I lived under the assumption that bouldering ability directly correlated with power. While working on Free Willy in Hueco a few weeks back with my friend Seth Lytton, I had an epiphany; To improve my bouldering skills, not only do I need to gain power but I also need to learn to think differently….Read More