Inspiration. Information. Improvement.


Frisco Buttress V7 – Frisco, CO

Photo by Jamison Burt

It’s a relatively cool day; I’m nestled in the Aspen trees, over-looking Interstate 70. I sit on my Organic crash pad – in my Vertical Girl Signature Bra, look up at the black and tan rock, and start to visualize each move of the Frisco Buttress. I go through the foot movement and placement. The reason why I haven’t sent this in the past is because my feet would cut at critical moments, and I would swing out violently, making the fall to the ground, the over shadowing back drop in my mind, very scary.  As I slip on my SCARPA Vapor S‘, the crux of the problem dissolves, allowing for greater determination and anticipation for the top out. As I climb, the rising confidence in my shoes, the ability to toe down on the small edges, and the friction of sticky rubber, the two crimp moves on the overhanging arete becomes the fun part of the climb, a viable challenge. I topped out, into the aspen grove and exhaled. I finally did my long-standing project. Thanks to SCARPA for creating a flexible, comfortable shoe, that allows for greater sensitivity while still having the air of an aggressive down-turned climbing shoe.

Rupture V7 – Morrison South, CO from Mercedes Pollmeier on Vimeo.

  • Start on right lower side pull and left obvious side pull. feet stay low, left foot on a ledge.
  • Right hand to gaston, left hand to slopey crimp.
  • Left foot moves just a bit higher and right foot moves up about two feet to good edge.
  • Right hand hits intermediate, small shallow pocket, before hitting the two finger side pulling pocket. You can make this into a pinch once you have a hold of the pocket.
  • Quick left hand switch to side pull right (next the slopey crimp).
  • Switch right foot with left foot and flag/scum with right.
  • This next move is quite cruxy, stay tight and move left hand to the sharp crimp.
  • Right foot finds a rounded edge next to the left foot, and flag left foot.
  • Right hand goes for a rounded jug. cutting feet here was neccessary for me to place my left foot high on a very shallow dish.
  • Big left hand move to a JUG! Expect feet to cut.
  • Right foot high and go right hand to incut crimp (intermediate) before hitting the horizontal pinch.
  • Switch feet and match pinch.
  • Top out is committing. Right hand finds its way to the horn (which is a shallow dish, but good enough to pull on).
  • Move left foot high and mantle up. I grabbed a left small tiny tiny edge that gave me enough leeway to get my right foot on the pinch to top out the problem.

    2 Responses to “Frisco Buttress V7 – Frisco, CO”

    1. November 2nd, 2011 at 4:34 am

      eblock says:

      nice send merc! i think that problem is super hard…

    2. November 3rd, 2011 at 5:43 pm

      merc says:

      Thanks eblock!! Your turn :)

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