GIRL BETA

Here is a vid from Walker Kearney of Prairie Kearney climbing Dragonfly V5, the Fin V4, Mexican Chicken V6, and Uncut Yogi V6. The season for Hueco is approaching, get ready to CRUSH!

Prairie in the Tanks from Walker Kearney on Vimeo.

Here is a nice video from Andy Mann of Glen Johnson and Courtney Sanders in Heuco Tanks.

Vaporizer V7 was put up by Ivelin Penchev, one of the first V7′s in the area. Lovely crimpy powerful line, tucked in a cave near Unshackled V10.

• Start on undercling jug with left foot on, right foot flag.
• Left hand moves to highest part of slot, right hand matches with either a right heel hook or right toe.
• Right foot on small jibb, left foot on either a smear or small jibb, to cross right hand to right facing crimp.
• Bring left foot up to the ledge, right foot on a small edge on “roof”.
• Sag into right arm, and bring left hand to small incut crimp.
• keep feet and dynamically go for jug on the roof. (tick this hold, because you can barely see it). Your feet may cut during this move. If you are like me, and rely solely on power, then your feet will cut.
• Right foot moves to the seam, right hand goes for big hold about 4 inches above lip.
• For best placement, put right heel in dish, pull up and mantle press out.

The Kind is definitely a classic of Rocky Mountain National Park. It’s located in the Emerald Lake bouldering area. In this video, Alexis Mascarenas shows us the best version of girl beta for this problem. It is a tough V5, where each move is powerful, and you will need good heel hooking shoes. I recommend the Vapor V by SCARPA.

• Start both hands in the jug, left foot directly under jug, right foot out to partial drop knee.
• Big move to good square ledge, switch right foot with left, left hand goes to jug up and left of the right hand.
• Right heel hook around the start jug, right hand goes to (what looks like) the farthest square ledge.
• Right foot heel hook out to the right and move left heel hook in (yes, double heel hooks people), come into the left hand hold just under the right hand.
• Keep heel hooks and big move to jug with right hand. Left foot may cut.
• Bring left foot up to knee level foot hold, right foot flags, left hand flips to side pull.
• Move left heel hook by left hand, and match right hand jug.
• Left hand moves to sideways sloping ledge, and match (keep feet the same).
• Left hand moves up to next jug (keep feet the same).
• RIght foot steps high, right hand moves to right hand jug, then bump to the next jug just below the lip.
• Left foot back step and move to the lip (its good! You just have to go a touch to the right).
• Heel hook and mantle to the top!

Thomasina Pidgeon does the first female ascent of Beautiful Gecko, in Bishop.

I think I have found my new heroine! Yoon-Sun Shin shows us some training tips and probably the most graceful ascent of Phobos V11.

Training Tips: Alpine Bouldering from KLT on Vimeo.

Powder Keg (v6 ) and Steep Grades, Sharp Curves (v5)

Lincoln Lake is a new and very popular area at the moment. Not just because of the limitless FA’s, but because it is one of the few areas in Colorado that are climable right now. Since there will be a ton of pads in the area, I encourage women to go there and establish some FA’s of their own, not just FFA’s. Below are two climbs featuring Kristen Kirkland. Thanks for the videos and the beta!

Powder Keg

• both hands matched on the start hold, left foot on the jib, right foot flagged

• move left hand to the next good hold, heel hook to bring right hand to match

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3 From Joe’s

Just before the Spring season ended in Joe’s Valley this year, some of the Girl Beta crew were able to get some last minute sends. Thanks to Erica Block for the great footage and editing!

Mono E Mono – definite soft V5

• Start right foot high, left foot low with middle finger left hand in mono and right hand on crimper/rail.
• Move left up to an intermediate crimp, bring left foot up and move left hand again to another crimper.

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This video was shot on a very hot day, at about noon, when the rattlesnakes are just coming out of their dug holes. It was about 75 degrees, and I decided not to have any spotters for this climb. I was sweaty and each move seemed committing. Don’t listen to those who say that “the climb is over once you have the two finger pocket” because that is not true in the slightest. The crimps are good, but you have to feel confident on your feet. This climb is strictly vertical, so balance is the key. This boulder is also quite high, higher than last season.

• Start matched on small sharp crimps
• left foot high, move dynamically for left two finger pocket. Once you got it, adjust finger to the right side of the pocket, it helps for the next move.
• Match feet and then stem left foot out. There is a micro crimp for the right hand about a foot or so above the pocket. Crimp it to bring right foot up on start holds.
• Big reach for the right hand to a solid crimp and then move left hand to the left hand crimp on the level.
• Bring right foot up to the pocket and go right hand to solid, but not in-cut, crimp.
• Move feet up and then left hand to a sloping crimp.
• This last move was committing for me, mainly because of the sweatiness. Move dynamically to left hand horn, it’s pretty much a jug. Then you are done.

Jamie Emerson talks with with Stephanie Marvez and Mercedes Pollmeier about what it takes to set for the women’s ABS Nationals, World Cup, female competition, and the need for female setters, and Jackie Hueftle shares her expertise in setting and how to get started as a female routesetter. Also check out the Women’s Edition of DeadPoint Magazine

It Goes Like This

Routesetting is one of the most important jobs in the gym, because a gym’s setters are what make its product, that is, the setters train the climbers by teaching them new movements and challenging them with powerful or technical sequences. (more…)