GIRL BETA

• Jugs for opening moves with a key heel-toe cam.
• Tough bottom moves with a left hand bump for the crux.
• Others crossed with right hand for the crux.
• Top out is some what slopey.

Newlin Creek has possibly some of the best granite in Colorado. It is totally worth the drive. You can find plenty of moderates in the main area and some gems in the new sectors. I think this could be a place for potential female FA’s. Tojo Risen is one of my favorite climbs there, with one of the best pinches around, and to top it off, you start with a heel-toe cam. In this clip, Kristen does a great job of heel hooking the slab for the crux move. Others, who generally have poor flexibility (like me), campus the next move after the rail.

First post of this blog. Quite exciting really. In this clip, you will find me, Mercedes (5’6″ with 0 ape), climbing The Pearl. This is probably one of the more classic climbs in the area. If you go, you should definitely do this one, even if it frustrates you. I used the more reachy beta. I was quite extended for the first move. Katinka Muehlschlegel (not shown in this video) uses a right gaston on the first feature to bump up to the crimp, then moves left hand to the intermediate before latching the jug.

Here is Katinka Muelschlegel on Monkey Bar Traverse. In the new guide book “Southern Nevada Bouldering” by Tom Moulin, they give this thing V7 and you can start on the jugs a few moves up from the very bottom. This is a very nice climb with lots of crimps. Katinka uses the cross beta at the crux with a drop knee, very effective. Enjoy!

Here is Monkey Bar direct with the “direct” foot work. This video is somewhat poor quality as you can’t see the holds. Better footage to come!

• Drop knee for first move set the fingers in the pocket with less pain.
• I went with the bump move at the second crux point.
• I have seen others place their right foot on a good edge out right and cross to the crimp.
• This is also good beta if you don’t have the reach.