GIRL BETA

Sara Penchev and Jenn Quattrocchi tear it up in Joe’s!

Against Humanity is probably one of the best climbs in the Poudre. Erica does a great job of the top, pressing out before latching the lip.

• Start matched anywhere on the left facing side pull and left foot posted straight out (right hand is positioned as a gaston)
• Left hand moves up to the rail
• Switch feet and jam a left knee bar and get a right toe hook directly under the left knee (very important)
• Right hand moves to gaston
• Stay tight and cut feet to place left foot on top of starting hold
• Left hand moves above the right hand and bumps to good incut, right hand matches
• Right foot moves to right rail, and left foot moves to left rail for a drop knee
• Drop knee left to go to the left hand pinch
• Move right foot high on incut crimp and press out with right hand as far as possible before latching the lip.
• Bump right hand to the righter most part of the lip and match.
• Left foot high and go left hand to jug (blind)
• Right foot moves out right for the right hand jug move (also blind)

Snow and Ice still cover the ground at Poudre Canyon, which make for great climbing temps and fun river crossings. Scarface can be found in the 4.20′s area. Great crimpy line with dynamic movements to finish.

• Start matched on left crimpy edge
• Kristen skips the first left hand crimp and goes up to the next crimpy edge.
• Match and get right foot high
• Left hand can either move to the better crimp (now a bit more broken and incut) or you can choose to use Kristen’s mini crimp beta.
• Dynamic bump to the sloper lip with left hand (The righter most sloper is best)
• Dynamic move to right hand to jug

This problem has been one of my lifetime goal sends. I have been working on this thing for about two years, and finally it all came together.

• Start anywhere on the underclings. I use a higher left crimp instead. right heel hook and a low left foot under the roof
• Right hand to the sloper pocket, move left foot into a heel and scum with the right foot.
• Left hand to lower sloper pocket, then bump to higher sloper pocket, all while keeping the left heel hook.
• Come in with right hand to lower sloper pocket and move right foot higher.
• Still keeping the heel, cross right hand through to the crimp on the arete and match with left hand to the good part of the hold.
• I have to cut my feet to get the high right heel hook, then shuffle hands around the arete so that left hand is in the sloper dish and the right is on the good part of the crimp.
• Right heel moves in. Make sure it is set really well (tie your shoes extra tight for this problem) because you will use this to make the big cross move to the crimp with the right hand.
• Match with left hand and place the right toe on the sloper dish.
• Right hand moves to the arete then bumps to the lip.

This boulder problem can be found on the back side of the “Captain Hook” boulder. This took me a while to find the beta that worked for me. There are a few variations to this one. Below is another video by Erica Block who uses some different beta.

• Start with left foot and right foot wide. small undercling with the left and big undercling with the right hand.
• Drop knee left to move left hand to the top edge of the sidepull.
• Switch left foot for right and flag left to bump right hand to the sloper pinch.
• Left heel hook by left hand and move left hand to sloper. Generate as much upward pull with that left heel, it helps to situate the hand better.
• Keep the feet and got right hand to the undercling.
• I kept my left heel while I went up to the crimp/pinch with the left.
• Leg hug with the right and get the small right hand crimp on the face.
• Left foot in the sloper and balance up to the jug on the lip.
• Fist pump for the win!

First move is the crux on this problem and is soo much fun! The beta is pretty straight forward after that, except for some hidden crimps on the holds. The problem does not top out, yet you can try if you like! Oh, and sorry about the really bright yellow tent, it is somwhat a permanent structure in the Dark Waters Cave.

• Start on left undercling and right hand sidepull. Right heel hook and low left toe.
• Big throw up to the crimp. Try to keep the heel!
• Bicycle with right toe underneath the start hold. match left hand, and traverse!
• Dont be fooled, there is a big move at the end, so save your energy!

I have been working on inertia kicks in the gym and finally got to use it outside!

• Chips (V7) starts on underclings with a right knee bar.
• Right hand crosses to the incut crimp.
• Keep the left hand undercling as you move your left foot up on the rail below the right hand and the right knee bar turns to a right toe-hook.
• Left hand moves around the arete to a small incut dish.
• Switch feet on the rail and move left foot to a small edge below the left hand.
• Bump left hand to the flat side-pull, then bump again to the upper more vertical side-pull.
• The lower part of the side-pull is key because of the texture.
• Look up at the tick mark for the jug (you are going to throw blind to it).
• Do a small counter-movement with your legs and inertia kick with the right leg, hiii-ya!!
• The jug is gooood.
• My beta for the top is really bad, as I had no clue what to find up there and I am terrible at top-outs.
• The holds on top are a bit slopey but close enough to situate your body.

This definitely took some team work between Erica, Kristen and myself.

• The first move is pretty big, but once you hit the lower part of the hold, you can bump the right hand higher until its basically awesome.
• The left hand shifts around to make room for the heel hook for the next move.
• The left pocket is a good intermediate before bumping to the sloper crimp.
• To reach the sloper crimp, the right foot should be placed on the small feature directly below the hips.
• Get the sloper crimp, keep the heel and grab the sloper knob (now I think I am just making up names for holds).
• Switch the heel to a toe and go for the jug.
• If you are Kristen’s height (5’3″), you can use the start hold for a right foot before going for the jug, this creates a higher percentage move.
• Kristen sent, so we dubbed it a “Team Send.”

Another nice video from Jackie Hueftle of her travels in France. Les Medisances (7a+) is a boulder problem of balance and sloper strength. Climber: Marjo.

Katja Vidmar just did her first V11 in Hueco Tanks. Check out her video climbing “Loaded with Power” (V10) provided by Gašper Bratina.