GIRL BETA

I start this boulder problem in a unique way. I have asked several people if this is valid, and unanimously it was agreed that as long as you have all four points of contact on the rock before doing the first move, it is legit. If you disagree, I’d love to hear other opinions. Honestly, I couldn’t start it any other way.

Start on underclings with left foot on small sloper on roof and right heel hook foot scum
Right hand to flat edge.
Left heel hook under roof and bump left hand to next undercling.
Keep left heel hook, readjust right heel to more of a toe hug and throw left hand to edged pinch. (good downward edge for the ring finger)
Readjust right heel higher, and left toe near the starting hold. Bump right hand to good part of the sloper.
Readjust right heel again to the flat edge hand hold.
This is where my beta is also very unique. I keep the left pinch and go up again with the right hand to a crimp then move my left hand to the sidepull pinch. Others go right hand to the sloper horn (reachy), left hand to sidepull pinch, then either right hand crimp or slap hug the top. Move left foot to good ledge and slap hug the top right feature.
Left toe moves to a heel up higher in the dish feature and mantle press with the left hand as far as you can.
If you are far enough, your whole left leg should be pressed all the way against the rock and your left hand should reach a good undercling crimp (further than you expect) on the small roof feature.
Press out and stand up!

This entry was posted on Sunday, April 24th, 2011 at 7:06 am and is filed under Boulder Problems. You can follow any responses to this entry through the RSS 2.0 feed. You can leave a response, or trackback from your own site.

3 Responses to “Authentic Battle Damage Stand – V8, Boulder Canyon – CO”

April 25th, 2011 at 1:07 am
Dan says:

i take credit for the topout beta. good crankin!
April 26th, 2011 at 5:15 pm
Alex says:

First I agree your ascent if definitely valid, but I thought I’ld share how I got off the ground. I went out and did ABD yesterday, I found that it’s easiest to do the first move, by starting in the undercling with your right hand on the rightside (crimpy edge) and left hand on the left side (blob part) as a hamhock with your thumb up. Really hog the undercling hold with your left hand pressing the meat of thumb palm into the hold (leave some skin on it). In the hamhock position your body is tighter to the wall and it is much easier to pull off the ground and execute the first move.
April 27th, 2011 at 2:56 am
merc says:

Thank you Alex for the great alternative beta! Way to crush this rig!