GIRL BETA

Psychedelia 2011: Spot Bouldering Series

This years SBS sponsor, Vertical Girl “Jenn Q”, performed her static trapeze act during Psychedelia. Her routine, in the bouldering world, would equal a V8/V9 ascent. It was an impressive display of dynamic movement, tension and control. Take a look for yourself!

Some wise words from the great Paige Claassen.  Paige comments on the rapid acceleration of women’s climbing.  As an elite female climber, her perspective is very eye opening. I found her thoughts about failure to be quite inspirational.

http://www.paigeclaassen.com/

Last weekend, the weather was looking bad for the Denver and front range areas, so some of the Girl Beta crew decided to take that opportunity to make our first trip of the season to Joe’s Valley, Utah. The goal of the trip was to scope out some of the “newer” areas and decide how well written and accurate the new Utah Bouldering guide was. For a more elaborate description of our journey, check out Ivelin Penchev’s site, Lovech Climbing. In general, the new areas were a good change-up, but the new guidebook seemed to be very misleading in terms of grades. As a positive to the new guide, it has great photos, fairly good start hold description, and good map layout. Below is a video of Sara, Mercedes and Ivo climbing DK’s Buldge V1, Balwin Bash V7, Big Cheesy V5, Taking the Stairs V9, & Dunkin Donuts V10.

Another great video from Walker Kearney of Lina Climbing Lobster Claw v5 and Moonshine roof v4.

Two from the Tanks: Lobster Claw and Moonshine Roof from Walker Kearney on Vimeo.

Wow! First female ascent of Stockboy’s Revenge in Rifle. Great job Jen!

Jen Vennon: Stockboy’s Revenge (5.14b/c) – Rock Climbing & Bouldering Articles.

Here is a vid from Walker Kearney of Prairie Kearney climbing Dragonfly V5, the Fin V4, Mexican Chicken V6, and Uncut Yogi V6. The season for Hueco is approaching, get ready to CRUSH!

Prairie in the Tanks from Walker Kearney on Vimeo.

Climbfind Hero: Dorothea Karalus

You’ve probably heard of the big guns in US female bouldering—Alex Puccio, Alex Johnson, Lisa Rands, and Angie Payne, to name the best of the best.  But how about all those other girls in the world who are pulling down?  Thanks to the World Cup circuit names like Anna Stöhr, Jain Kim, Juliane Wurm, Melissa Le Neve and Akiyo Noguchi are becoming more household in the States, at least if you follow comps.  What about hardcore outdoor climbing women though? Read More!

Here is a nice video from Andy Mann of Glen Johnson and Courtney Sanders in Heuco Tanks.

Vaporizer V7 was put up by Ivelin Penchev, one of the first V7′s in the area. Lovely crimpy powerful line, tucked in a cave near Unshackled V10.

• Start on undercling jug with left foot on, right foot flag.
• Left hand moves to highest part of slot, right hand matches with either a right heel hook or right toe.
• Right foot on small jibb, left foot on either a smear or small jibb, to cross right hand to right facing crimp.
• Bring left foot up to the ledge, right foot on a small edge on “roof”.
• Sag into right arm, and bring left hand to small incut crimp.
• keep feet and dynamically go for jug on the roof. (tick this hold, because you can barely see it). Your feet may cut during this move. If you are like me, and rely solely on power, then your feet will cut.
• Right foot moves to the seam, right hand goes for big hold about 4 inches above lip.
• For best placement, put right heel in dish, pull up and mantle press out.