Inspiration. Information. Improvement.


Turning Point, V8 – Satellite Boulders, CO

This problem has been one of my lifetime goal sends. I have been working on this thing for about two years, and finally it all came together.

  • Start anywhere on the underclings. I use a higher left crimp instead. right heel hook and a low left foot under the roof
  • Right hand to the sloper pocket, move left foot into a heel and scum with the right foot.
  • Left hand to lower sloper pocket, then bump to higher sloper pocket, all while keeping the left heel hook.
  • Come in with right hand to lower sloper pocket and move right foot higher.
  • Still keeping the heel, cross right hand through to the crimp on the arete and match with left hand to the good part of the hold.
  • I have to cut my feet to get the high right heel hook, then shuffle hands around the arete so that left hand is in the sloper dish and the right is on the good part of the crimp.
  • Right heel moves in. Make sure it is set really well (tie your shoes extra tight for this problem) because you will use this to make the big cross move to the crimp with the right hand.
  • Match with left hand and place the right toe on the sloper dish.
  • Right hand moves to the arete then bumps to the lip.

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