Inspiration. Information. Improvement.


Archive for the ‘Boulder Problems’ Category

Keep the Video’s Coming!!

The last few posts were made possible by women from around the world who sent their climbing footage in. A big thank you to Detriot Rock Climbing Company for supplying the hang boards that these lovely ladies get to enjoy for their submissions!

Remember, if you submit your video, and it is chosen, you are eligible to win a DRCC hang board, Organic Slider Pad, or some Vertical Girl Clothing, so KEEP’EM COMING!! The video submission period has been extended until May 31st.

Spittin’ Venom V9 – Red Rock Canyon

Here is a video submission from Jeline Guiles:

- Start with your hands on the two crimp rails at the bottom.
- Use the tiny left foot and a low right heel around the arete.
- Pull up to the first intermediate right crimp, then quickly throw to the higher right crimp. If you’re taller, you can just go straight to the higher right crimp.
- Get a left heel on the start and lock off your right arm. Taller people can toe into the clearly marked left foot below the first starting left hand.
- Fall into the left micro jug.
- Bring your right hand up to the other micro jug on the right side.
- Match your hands and pull up over the lip.
- Reach for the far left jug and top it out.
- Top out holds are numerous, you just have to feel for them

Croft Problem at the Lower Smoking Boulder (V8), Bishop, California

Here is a video submission by Christine Balaz.

Croft Problem at the Lower Smoking Boulder (V8), Bishop, California from Christine Balaz on Vimeo.

*sit start with the right and left hands each on large flakes/ left foot low (backstep), right foot high (in big pocket)
*long left-hand move to good sloper, bump right hand up
*flag left foot behind right
*bump left hand again to gaston
*bring left foot to edge, under body
*move right hand up to 2-finger knob/crimp
*bump right hand up to sloper pocket
*move the right foot up to edge, and then left foot up (into good pocket); this is where beta gets very different for people. Drop knee with left leg
*grab bad sloper/ crimp with left hand (thumb catch is key)
*walk left, then right foot up
*(crux) pop to a good gaston with left hand (make funny noise)
*The problem is pretty much over now; walk feet up, and bring right hand up, then move out to the left

Stephan V7- Little Cottonwood Canyon

Here is Heather Alday climbing Stephan V7. This video features other classics from LCC and Heather starts climbing a bit before the four minute mark. Beta for this climb is listed below

Little Cottonwood Canyon Classics – Episode 1 from Wagon Productions on Vimeo.


Begin low on obvious start holds, left foot low on good hold, edge right foot in crack just left of the more noticeable foot hold. (this will give you extra reach)

Pull off the ground and move right hand to undercling then left hand to 1st crimp rail, left foot up near start hold.

Bump left hand (big move) to 2nd crimp rail. Right foot up to point.

Match hands on crimp rail.

Right hand extends up to the lip, left foot up to crimp, left hand finds a fairly good edge on the left side of the lip. Bring feet up, throw right foot over lip and top out

Red House V7 – Little Rock City (AKA Stone Fort), Tennessee

Climbers – Jill Sompel, Emily McCleary, Kaitlyn Honnald

Red House Remix from Jill Sompel on Vimeo.


The Beta – Begin with both hands on underclings and a left heel/toe cam, make powerful bicepy move with left hand to envelop slot. Walk right foot over to release left foot in order to move it up to the next ledge for a left toe cam. Match right hand on sloping edge. Lock off with your right arm to place left hand into finger lock. Walk right foot over and place a left heel hook above your head. Bring right hand up to pinch the undercling and bump left hand to plate. Bring right foot over and place a SOLID knee bar. Right hand comes to a wide pinch as an intermediate then bump out to a undercling pocket. Walk left foot in and flag hard with right foot, bring left hand to next good pocket jug. Match on jug and move up with left hand to small crimper on face. Bring right hand to sharp slot, re-adjust feet and go big to the sloping edge with left hand. Step feet up on jugs and traverse over right with good underclings at your waist!

Katha Saurwein doing ‘Xavier’s roof’ V11 the girls way. Bishop CA

Austrian World Cup climber Katha Saurwein shows us some Girl Beta on Xavier’s Roof V11 Bishop, CA

Katha Saurwein doing ‘Xavier’s roof’ V11 the girls way. Bishop CA from katharina saurwein on Vimeo.

JBMFP – Joshua Tree Bouldering

Here is a nice video featuring Mad Rock Athlete Natalie. JBMFP V5- Joshua Tree, California

Select Boulder Problems from Joe’s Valley, LCC, and the Kraft Boulders

Sierra Allen presents us with another video from Utah and Nevada. In this one she climbs Porcini or Portabello V6, Brawny Dyno V5, Michelangelo V3, Mr. Smiley V7, and the Pearl V4/5.

Select Boulder Problems from Joe’s Valley, LCC, and the Kraft Boulders from Sierra Allen on Vimeo.

Kerstin bouldering Carrot Top V3, at the Happy Boulders, Bishop

Kerstin sends Carrot Top (V3) at the Happy Boulders, Bishop, CA

Kerstin bouldering Carrot Top at the Happy Boulders, Bishop from Ralf Reines on Vimeo.

Kerstin bouldering T-Rex V3 Yosemite Valley

Here is a neat little video of Kerstin bouldering T-Rex V3, in the beautiful Yosemite Valley.

Kerstin bouldering T-Rex Yosemite Valley from Ralf Reines on Vimeo.

Analytics Plugin made by VLC Media Player